October 2012

[HK] Harlan's Cake Shop @ The ONE

Graham Kerr, a famous cooking personality once remarked 'I prefer to regard a dessert as I would imagine the perfect woman: subtle, a little bittersweet, not blowsy and extrovert. Delicately made up, not highly rouged. Holding back, not exposing everything and, of course with a flavour that lasts.'

With an abundance of Chinese bakeries lining estates and streets of Hong Kong, it was quite exhilarating to say the least when we read about a recommendation of a western pastry dessert hideout located along the corridors of The ONE shopping centre located at Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon. Upon arrival, the service was immaculate, with the waiting staffs greeting us unanimously. The manager even took extra efforts to introduce us to the ingredients of the cakes we ordered and also provided us with more information about the other restaurants that Harlan's have to offer. Anyhow, time to let the sweet tooth sink it in!

Tofu Cheesecake ($238/1 lb)

Having tried countless tofu cheesecakes, we decided to give this a shot. This was baked and served in a rather unique fashion. Unlike common cheesecakes, there was no biscuit crumbs layer at the bottom of the cheesecake. Instead the biscuit crumbs were kneaded into knots, which tasted crisp and melted in our mouths. The texture of the tofu cheesecake was denser than a normal tofu, yet lighter than that of a classic New York cheesecake. The more dominating taste of the cake in general was that of cheese, which thankfully was not overwhelming. Apart from some tofu cubes on the surface of the cake, it would be pretty difficult to identify the presence of tofu in the dessert. A huge plus though was that the cheesecake was not overly saccharin. Do note that the tofu cheesecake was only available in at least 1/2 lb in size and weight and not in petite offering.

Verdict: 7.5/10

White chocolate mousse and black truffles ($48/-)

We were informed by the manager that owing to Harlan's primary operation as a fine dining restaurant, their cake shop was able to capitalize on luxury ingredients such as black truffles and foie gras in their dessert range. The white chocolate mousse emitted a strong truffle aroma owed to the black truffle paste used, invigorating our smelling sense preceding sampling. It melted instantly in our mouths and was very smooth indeed. The flavours of the black truffles lingered in the aftertaste, leaving us with much to fathom, with a slice of fresh black truffle nestled at the top of the dome. The icing on the cake was ironically the biscuit base of the cake, littered with fragmented pieces of white chocolate. This treat is a 'must-try' for truffle fans and one should certainly stay prepared for an entertaining array of flavours with each mouth bite.

Verdict: 8.5/10

Lime Mousse Cake ($38/-)

Being a huge fan of lime and lemon desserts, the lime mousse cake sounded too tempting to resist. The strong zesty flavours of lime were unfortunately limited to the surface layer and we would have preferred it more if it carried through to the interior of the cake. There was a distinct layering within the cake with a spongy interior stuffed with crystallized ginger pieces and a lighter mousse coating. The crystallized ginger filling was unexpected and certainly did not live up to be a pleasant surprise either. Till date, we have yet to find a worthy opponent to challenge Maison Kayser's lemon tart when it comes to acidic desserts.

Verdict: 6.0/10

Rose Champagne White Chocolate ($42/-)

This was one of their recommended signature cakes so it certainly came with an expectation to match. Offered as a dual-layered cake, the upper layer seemed to lack any flavours of the rose champagne, while the base layer carried a subtle tinge which suited our palate. We were particularly impressed with the immaculate touch of the chef to give a varied texture to the dessert. The exterior surface of the white chocolate had a crisp disposition, which blended well with the light, smooth and moist sponge cake interior, infused with a light mousse. Repeated tasting though gave a jelat feeling, perhaps owed to the overdose of creaminess from the white chocolate. The decorative rose petals at the top of the cake was however too 'artificial' to say the least to consume. It was bland and pretty much tasteless, a stark contrast to the usual icing complementing a cake.

Verdict: 7.5/10

Sexy Lady ($48/-)

The 'Sexy Lady' was one of Harlan's signature cakes, which was highly recommended to us by the servers. Delicately shaped and sculpted, this was certainly a rich treat for dark chocolate fans. Fine valrhona chocolate, specially imported from France, with at least 70% cocoa was used in the making of the cake. The core of the cake was evidently the raspberry soaked in balsamic vinegar, which offered a neutralizing balance to the dense and bitter sweet dark chocolate. The raspberry was simmered with fine balsamic vinegar aged at least 25 years. Like the rest of Harlan's other cakes, this chocolate decadence was a marvel, as the level of sweetness was optimal and did not leave us scurrying for drinks. The denser exterior contrasted perfectly with the smooth mousse on the inside, complemented by the crunchy cookie-tart base. The centrepiece to this cake was none other than the pair of 'sexy legs' made of chocolate at the top of the dome-shaped dessert, which drew attention once more to its provocative name.

Verdict: 8.0/10

Black Americano

Being a dessert connoisseur at heart, a good brew is essential to complement a dessert-tasting trip. Using 'Lavazza' dark roasted coffee beans, the black Americano was everything that we desired and wanted, with the prime balance of acidity, giving a smooth aftertaste.

Verdict: 8.0/10

With limited shop space, Harlan's Cake Shop was tucked at a corner along the corridors. There were only 3 coffee tables available with a few steel chairs. A critical downside was that the tables were too low for comfort, making one having to bend forward in an awkward fashion to fetch your cup of coffee or to slice another portion of the cake. The service though was remarkable and the servers were more than willing to share information about the ingredients used or provide recommendation. It was in general a worthy expedition and we definitely made our calories count.

Harlan's Cake Shop

Shop L411, 4/F, The ONE Mall,

100 Nathan Road,

Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon

Hong Kong

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, by cy

French Cuisine

[SG] Bistro Du Vin

Tucked in a small corner of Shaw Centre, this was a great find that was surprisingly packed on a weekday evening. In a rather hidden place near the carpark, it's easy to miss it in the alley. Stepping in was as though going into a different world. A transition from the busy hustle bustle outside with cars and impatient taxis honking away, to a dimly-lit cosy restaurant playing soft instrumental music at the background.

Its whole setting helped create a very relaxed state of mind, that you can slowly savour your food over a good conversation.

Complimentary baguette loaf that's refillable upon request

My friend remembers Bistro Du Vin for this, showing how dedicated they are, perfecting even the complimentary starter dish. It was served at room temperature initially and it just felt like normal baguette with good skin. A dissatisfied customer, who brought me here as she was thinking of the bread, my friend brought it up to their service staff and immediately, they apologised for it and whisked it away. Asking us to wait for a few minutes, it didn't fail to live up to expectations. Served warm from the oven, the skin was just crisp and had warm fluffy insides. I like it 'cos it had a slightly thicker skin that gave it an extra chewiness.

Braised Beef Cheek ($33.80)

A pot of goodness contained in it, this would be my version of the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Extremely soft and tenderly braised meat, it really melts in your mouth. Too tender that you actually have to spend some effort cutting it, in order to prevent a mess with its softness. The flavour of this dish is abit strong initially, but its definitely great for beef fans! Once your taste buds have settled down from the heightened senses, it was just great from then.

The gravy was just awesome. Rich and perhaps there was a little red wine in it to lift the flavour of the dish. It's the kind of gravy where you can just dip anything into it and it'll make the dish significantly better. Needless to say, we've tried dipping our subsequent dishes into this 'universal gravy'!

Nom Factor: 8.5/10

Truffle Mash (+ $3)

This was a complementing dish with the beef cheeks but we topped up to change the mash to truffle mash. It was undoubtedly the best choice ever! Being a potato and truffle lover, it was just heavenly for me. Every mouthful was filled with the rich flavour of truffle, yet it wasn't overpowering that it got jelat after awhile. In fact, every mouthful just got us more and more addicted. A must-order for all truffle fans!

Nom Factor: 9.5/10

Berkshire Pork Chop ($28)

This reminded me of the Yorkshire Pork that was just so heavenly at Colwyn Bay in UK. It was of acceptable standards comparing to that, but I guess the whole travelling experience just made the one at UK much better. To be very fair, I found this dish done pretty well. The portion of meat chosen was extremely tender and you can see that it wasn't laden with fats. Yet every bite was springy and tender, and never once did I have to chew very hard. The caramelied onions served on top gave a very good complement as it added on to the sweetness of the meat, with a slight natural salted taste from the pork. It was a little dry though, and would have been great if there was gravy served at the side. Of course, we loved it with the beef cheeks gravy.

Nom Factor: 8.0/10

Truffle Fries ($6)

This was the only disappointing dish out of all that we've ordered. Perhaps having high expectations after our heavenly experience with the truffle mash, this totally paled in comparison. There wasn't much truffle taste in it and it just tasted like normal fries. Would have been better if it were shoestring fries to better encapsulate the truffle taste and of course, have more truffle in it!

Nom Factor: 5.0/10

A very familiar setting as with quite a bit of UK restaurants, making me nostalgic already.

It seemed deceptively empty at 7pm but by 7.30pm, I understood why there was a need to make reservations. Even on an unassuming weekday evening, it was packed to the brim. Definitely a great place to chill with your girlfriends or even on a date. A little pricey, but a great shot if you're feeling like you need some indulgent food to cheer up your day. Service was also great as you can sense their genuineness when serving you. They might not be able to attend to you very promptly though with their brisk business, but I was satisfied just seeing how they've been trying their best.

Overall Nom Factor: 8.5/10

1 Scotts Road #02-12

Shaw Centre

Singapore 228208

For reservations, call 6733-7763

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, by swee

Bakery

[HK] Kam Wah Cafe | 金華冰廳

The search for good 'bo lo bau' or 'buttered pineapple bun' brought us travelling to this tea restaurant (cha chaan teng) nestled among the busy streets of Mongkok. With no lack of food accolades such as recommendation by CNN and local media, let the tasting adventure begin!

'Bo Lo Yau' (菠蘿油)

Contrary to what the name suggested, this popular sweet pastry widely available in Chinese bakeries contains no pineapple fruit at all. The sugary tasting crust on the top of the bun is supposedly made to resemble the epicarp of a pineapple, with a dough similar to that used to make sugar cookies, commonly consisting of sugar, eggs, flour and lard. The bread underneath is the same used in Chinese style Western bread, which is a softer and sweeter dough compared to Western breads. The name of the pastry is therefore pretty much derived according to its appearance.

The 'bo lo yau' tried at Kam Wah has a slight variation, though commonly served in cha chaan tengs in Hong Kong, with a large slab of butter in between the halves of the bun. The bo lo bau was served straight from the oven, feeling slightly warm. The slab of butter was applied at room temperature and the heat from the bun made it melt instantly. The top crust was slightly stiff and tasted very well toasted albeit it tasting slightly sweet. Being served straight from the oven, the fresh bun tasted light, fluffy and airy on the inside, which contrasted almost perfectly with the hardened sweet crust.You would fall in love with Kam Wah's version of bo lo bau if you are a fan of toast. What would probably be the icing on the cake would literally be the appearance of the crust. Ideally, it should resemble the epicarp of the pineapple, though in this instance, it was nowhere close.

Verdict: 8.5/10

Hong Kong style French Toast

The Hong Kong version of the French Toast is probably a more calories-loaded serving compared to its original counterpart. Served with a thin slab of butter, the surface of the sandwich had been deep fried to golden brown, leaving it a crisp texture but certainly greasy. The traditional way of enjoying this sandwich is to drizzle honey over the toast, though upon the first bite, we realised that something was amiss.

There was no peanut butter in the sandwich! Well it is not exactly a standard spread expected when one orders the French Toast in Hong Kong, though majority of the cha chaan tengs around would probably serve their toasts with a generous layer of peanut butter before deep-frying it. The toast however was exuding a rich fragrance of butter flavour with a fluffy soft interior, leaving us craving for another bite after the first. If there was any consolation to this, it tasted oily but at least it was not overwhelming.

Verdict: 7.5/10

Puff Pastry Egg Tarts

Priced individually, the puff pastry egg tarts were a 'must order' since tmcy is a huge fan of it. The buttery crust was thin and crumbled easily, so have your plate close by! This was contrasted with a generous serving of the egg filling which was very soft and tender, literally melting in your mouth. There was a very subtle sweetness to the filling, enough to please the palate. There wasn't a strong egg flavour to it but the filling had a solid strong yellow colour tone to it, which probably meant that artificial colouring were being added. Some might prefer the thin crust, though personally we would have enjoyed it better if the crust was slightly thicker, to give a balance to the plentiful filling. Likewise, the base of the tart was a tad too thin for our liking, though it must be said that the crust had a strong buttery taste and flavour to it.

Verdict: 7.5/10

Hot Drinks (Black Coffee and Milk Tea)

We particularly favoured the usage of old school serving cups, which went very well with the setting of the cafe. Unfortunately, like most cha chaan teng's black coffee (no sugar nor milk added), it tasted very acidic and served more of a thirst quencher. The milk tea fared slightly better, but was not good enough to impress.

Verdict: 6.5/10

Mexico Bread

As we were leaving the cafe, there was a tray of freshly baked 'Mexico bread' being brought to the front of the cafe, where takeaway orders are being served. It would be close to impossible to resist against piping hot freshly baked bread of any sort really. The Mexico bread was light and fluffy on the inside (the classic airy inside) and a slightly crisp toast to the surface of the bun, filled with sweetened crust, similar to that of the bo lo bun. It was not too sweet either, which suited our palate. Overall, it was another must-try, just be careful of the crumbling crust that might fall all over you.

Verdict: 9.0/10

Chicken Pie

Another takeaway order, but this simple looking and widely available chicken pie tasted pretty extraordinary to say the least. Despite a rather thick layer of buttered pastry on the top of the pie, it did not taste overly greasy nor overwhelming. The filling was simple and not excessive, but the rich flavours of the buttery pastry more than compensated the somewhat lacking chicken chunks filling.

Verdict: 7.5/10

Kam Wah Cafe is the classic traditional Hong Kong cha chaan teng, where you would expect a lot of hustle and buzz surrounding you while you attempt to feebly tuck in to your meal. Chances are you would have the pleasant or unwanted company of a stranger sharing a table with you, which will potentially affect your dining appetite. Do not expect to linger around too long either after you had finished your meal, for before you know it, the serving waiters and waitress are beckoning your departure. Apart from the setting, the food was in general very satisfactory. We would certainly return, for a takeaway at least, if we are in the Mongkok vicinity.

Kam Wah Cafe

G/F 47 Bute Street
Prince Edward

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, by cy

All-day breakfast

[SG] Selfish Gene Cafe

Do you have the selfish gene in you? Once again, I'm attracted by the interesting choice of name. A visit to the place then revealed that the name came about as the chef, Gene, is selfish because he doesn't serve food that he doesn't eat. It was almost an assurance that the food served will be of a certain calibre, making us look forward to what was going to be served.

Caramel Slice ($3.80)

Salted caramel toffee with coverture chocolate glaze, biscuit base and coffee sand

This was a little out of our expectations, and thought we were served wrongly initially as we were expecting a cake slice rather than 3 small pieces. Upon our forks touching the surface of each slice, we realised that it was quite a chore eating this and eventually made a mess of the dish. The caramel toffee was just too hard for us to cut through and the biscuit base just came apart in our attempts to split the pieces so that each mouthful isn't too overwhelming. It tasted just like toffee candies, and the biscuit base had an interesting salted twist to it. I like the toffee for not being overly sweet, and the slight savory biscuit to go with it. It would have been so much better if the toffee pieces were softer so that it could go better with the base and not have us pairing it individually.

Nom Factor: 6.5/10

Banana Cake ($5.80)

with caramelised banana, crumble and peanut butter

Warm, soft and moist banana cake, what can I not love about this? The cake was very light and fluffy, with a dash of moistness from the fresh slices of bananas inside, and heated up just right that it almost just melts in your mouth. The cake with the crumble bits were good, giving a well-complemented texture. The peanut butter sauce on top, was however, a little too strong for my liking. Thick, salted and creamy, it overpowered the taste of the banana cake, turning the limelight onto the peanut butter instead. I would have preferred it without the sauce actually, though it gave a good shift in the taste such that the sweet and savory parts combine. Perhaps the peanut butter sauce could have been served by the side, so the authenticity of the banana cake is allowed to shine as well. Nonetheless, it's quite a good bake in my opinion, given the quality and texture of the banana cake. It's so light and yummy that it's hard to feel jelat from it.

Nom Factor: 8.0/10

Quite an airy yet cosy space, great for chilling out! It only opens till 6pm though, so perhaps if you're feeling tired from work, this is a great place to enjoy the peace and serenity.

A fan of all-day breakfasts, this menu is enough to tempt me for a second time back.

Another dessert that caught my eye - the lemon tart topped with burnt soft meringue. It's only available during the weekends, and definitely on my must-try list. This cafe has the feel of a very Aussie-like cuisine and ambience that makes you feel like you aren't really in Singapore. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the main roads, it slows down your pace for a while, and draws you in to sit down and enjoy a cup of coffee or chill over desserts.

Overall Nom Factor: 8.0/10

40 Craig Road

Singapore 089678